Qadisha Valley

Posted by on Mar 31, 2010 in Lebanon - 2010 | 2 comments

Qadisha Valley

Hi all

(that’s enough food…………Ed)

The last few days in and around the Qadisha valley, where do I start. By far the best location of the holiday so far. High up in the Lebanese mountains, just below the ski resorts that have no snow, I think we had it all as they have had a wild winter by comparison to normal.

The valley itself is a steep sided rocky gorge with small mountain villages dotted around the top and clinging precariously to the edge in some cases. I was stopping in Hasroun, in a wonderfully charismatic 110 year old house and server vast quantities of home cooked food all day long by the fantastic old landlady and her sister.

All the villages around the top of the gorge all have their own feel and idiosyncracies. As it’s still the start of spring here (altitude 1500M) it is nice and quiet. Plenty of old and young village folk just passing the time of day at a very leisurely pace with the friends and neighbours.

Yesterday I had a stupendous walk down in the valley itself. Firstly driving down the very steep road with sheer drops, no guard rails and plenty of hairpin bends. The walk was just brilliant, cedars, oaks, pines and the odd olive tree partially lined the valley. Wild flowers dotted here and there, and the smell of gorse wafting every now and again from the odd bush. Small lizards basked on the south-facing rocks in the warm spring sunshine, scurrying to avoid me most of the time. A gentle breeze rustled through the trees on occasions just to freshen things now and again.

There are a number of cave monasteries and churches along and in the side of the valley that I got to visit, including the one high up on the cliff that is a cave monastery currently inhabited (intended) by a Columbian monk. Where would one of my holidays be without the monk incident. We had a good chat for a while before he wished me a fond farewell and off I walked off up the valley. 6 1/2 hours of flora and fauna enjoyment. Taking it all in and feeling very content in the clear blue sky.

Today I have driven over the Lebanon mountain range to the Bekaa valley. Despite the lack of snow the road I intended to use was still blocked by snow. So armed with my map of Lebanon courtesy of Amazon I set out a route that contoured around the mountain and then further south I found an extra little road that got me over the top. Stopping for a cigar (I know, I know) to marvel at the expanse of the Bekaa valley below. I even spotted a wild fox running off and watched a bird of prey circle on the updraft from the valley.

A stunning start to the day indeed. What a fantastic drive it was too. Mostly just me and the open mountain road. Just what I really needed and wanted.

Can you tell I am having a rather fabulous time?

2 Comments

  1. cyclamen x

  2. “Er…….Church & mountain”

    It is actually a mausoleum, The Sacred Heart, dedicated to a young Sheikh (Sheikh Shibl Isaa El Khoury) martyred during the two years war, which initiated the Lebanese war back in 1975/1976.
    as for the Mountain: it would be Mount St Elias, overlooking the Quadisha valley from this side and Bqoufa Steep from the back side.
    The wild flowers you‘v mentioned are, like sally said, Cyclamens, bulb winter/early spring flowers.

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