Folks,

Well here we are again back on the open road. The call from Belarus was just too great and I had to come here and find out all about it. There is something about the ex USSR countries that keeps drawing me back, whatever it is? I love it.

To cut down on cost and make it a bit more exciting I flew into Warsaw on Saturday stopped in a youth hostel and then after a six o'clock start on Sunday morning, two trams, one bus, three trains and another bus I made it to Grodna in Belarus. Eastern Europe is the spiritual home of public transport, flash it may not be but functional and punctual it is. Yesterday one of the changes of trains only had a five minute gap after a three hour fifty minute journey..... no problem, everything went to time!!!

Belarus......what can I say? What a fantastic place, a real hidden treasure. Forget the last vestiges of communism, that I have read about, or the dour image full of grump ugly people driving 1974 Ladas Grodna itself feels fresh, clean, conservative and very relaxing and far from dowdy and rundown. Everybody was contented dressed up in their Sunday best yesterday walking along the litter free main pedestrian area with smart trendy shops, or through the parks and along the riverbank, enjoying a beer or two and a packet of crisps for some reason. I just made do with a strong cup of coffee, a gorgeous bottle of beer and a cigar sat outside a café under an umbrella during a brief but heavy thunderstorm it all felt so good I could not get the grin off my face. Food wise it is very healthy with salads, dark rye bread and shish kebabs, oh! and the beer. There are at least two pages in every menu listing each of the bottled beers they sell and there are a lot, light, dark, weak strong (10% plus). I will let you know how I get on. If last night is anything to go by, quite well indeed thank you.The border guards and customs have to be one of the friendliest I have come across, even helping me out with the all Russian/Cyrillic declaration form. They may not have the electronic swipe machines that the Polish guards had, but had to made do with a wooden box, a pen and a gente but welcoming attitude. Far better than certain customs officials across the Atlantic (sorry but it has to be said).

There also appears to be a lack of mafia activity as well, despite the proximity of the border. No blacked out BMW's and men in shades and of indeterminate job. In addition I did not receive one phone call last night offering me "certain services" this is almost unheard of in tourist hotels.

This internet café is much like Grodna itself. Difficult to find in an unassuming building but with an unexpected freshly decorated room with new furniture and new PC's, and everybody diligently getting on with whatever they are doing.

I have my train ticket for tonight as charming Grodno is, I am moving on to Vitebsk in the east of the country a 10 hour journey on a sleeper train.

Now its time for more, beer, coffee, food and cigars.... this traveling is hard work you know.

Belarus......What a pleasurable revelation.