08/06/07

We had an early start at 8AM as we had decided that a walk around the city walls was a must on the first full day. We managed to locate the open air market, a small bakers and a mini supermarket to get provisions for our breakfast of bread, chocolate and jam filled croissants, peaches, plums, apricots ham and cheese. Armed with this we headed for the entrance to the city wall, paid our entrance fee and headed upwards, in the wonderfully sunny morning warmth. The views from the city wall are fantastic. The different, gradients, vantage points and perspectives make you appreciate the city even more. We eventually found somewhere to sit high up on the wall overlooking the sea, with views to Lokrum Island to the left and the citadel fort to the right. Perhaps it is expectation or just the truth, but breakfast tasted better than it does at home, just as it should, with crusty but soft bread, tasty ham and very juicy peaches. The views out to sea under the increasingly warm sunshine also added to the glorious moment. What a vantage point.

The leisurely pace was continued as we circum-navigated the complete city walls, taking numerous photographs along the way, even having time for a coffee. The views of the city and beyond got better and better once we got to the landward side of the city walls climbing uphill following the natural gradient of the terrain. There were superb views out to sea set, off in the foreground by the seemingly seamless carpet effect of terracotta roofs and narrow streets. We eventually reached the highest point on the wall at the top of Minceta Fortress. It was well worth the short climb. At around 11:30AM we descended the wall all smiles from the extremely enjoyable 2KM walk. By this time the city was full of tourist, some of whom were now queuing at the entrance, to walk around the city walls. The early start really paid off. We then got more food for lunch as we had decided to go to Lokrum Island in the afternoon and have a picnic, picking up our swimming costumes along the way, before boarding the short 10 minute ferry ride to the island.

What a tranquil and idyllic location this is. It was a million miles from the hustle and bustle of midday in the old city. We only ventured a short walk from the jetty and took up our places of the rocks. Lunch was the same as breakfast but tasted just as good. Shortly afterwards we all went for a swim in the crystal clear but slightly cool water. The remainder of the day was spent on the rocks in the sunshine relaxing and chilling out with the odd dip in the sea for a swim every now and again. Suitably relaxed and sunburnt after we all fell asleep at some point, we got the 5:45PM ferry back to the old city.

The restaurant Rozarij was the location for our evening meal. We had a super seat for the 4 of us in a secluded corner next to the monastery. After we had all perused the menu the waiter came over to take our order and offered us the chance to share a whole grooper fish (about 1½ foot long) between the 4 of us. For a starter the waiter indulged us with salad, bread and olive oil. We found out the waiter had been running the restaurant for the past 28 years along with his wife. All that experience was put to good practice when the fish came out and he deftly served the fish by first removing the bones in what can only be described as a ritualistic manner. Wine and beer flowed easily, and we all had a relaxing evening, chatting, laughing and discussing ad nausea. Then out came the grappa liqueur. A clear viscous liquid contained in a thick glassed bottle, filled with fresh  herbs to give it some subtle flavours, all stopped with a cork wrapped in kitchen paper... brilliant. The bottle was left at our table for us to consume at our will... oh dear.

Bed and some well earned sleep were not far away after such a tremendous day.