09/06/07

I think everybody woke this morning sporting some from of hangover. It must have been a very good evening. We were up and about for 9am. Once again we decided to buy our breakfast, this time with the inclusion of tasty tomatoes and strawberries. We walked down to the small beach just outside the northern part of the city. Wonderful views of the small bay surrounded by the historic city walls and defensive Lovrijenac fortress with blue sky and sea in between. By the time we had finished the coaches were arriving with all the passengers from the many cruise ships that come to the port, 6 in total today so we were led to believe. It is nice for the old city to have so many visitors given its most recent past; I just hope that the volume of people and its effect does not have negative consequences for the city itself. It can become quite congested and claustrophobic in the narrow marble covered streets and alleyways.

The defensive fort on its promontory rock looked so inviting when we were breakfasting that we had to go up and explore. What a find, the views alone were just great, overlooking the whole city, defending the north western wall as well as approaches from the sea. It is the perfect location to help defend the city from both land and sea. The fort itself was a warren of stairways and different levels and must have been a mighty site in its heyday. There were even piles of stone cannonballs of various sizes in neat little piles for that authentic feel.

It was then back to the city from some cultural exploration starting at the Franciscan monastery. Once you enter the building itself you are presented with the tranquil cloisters surrounded by twin octagonal pillars surmounted with individual capitals showing faces of nuns, animal heads etc.. The museum just off the cool cloister was for the pharmacy, this first opened here in 1317 and reputed to be the oldest in Europe contained various historic pharmacopoeias as well as religious artefacts from the monastery. Onward through the side streets with our ice creams to a modern art gallery full of 3D graphic images. This was a marked change from the oodles of history outside. Back in time again this time to the Dominican monastery. Once again quite cool cloisters with strange long grass and an orange tree in the corner as well as a museum and associated church.

Ready made sandwiches for lunch today served by a strangely grumpy old man in a side street sandwich kiosk. These we packed and fought our way through the burgeoning number of tour groups this time being dropped off by boat in the main old harbour. We just caught our ferry to the beautifully tranquil island. This time we walked a little further a field to the other side of the island. The waves were bigger, the breeze was stronger. However, after a bit of exploration we found an idyllic secluded location with both sun and shade as the temperature had risen and it was now quite warm indeed. Lunch was then eaten before we all rested. Alie and I went for a swim despite the difficult access to the sea from the rocks. The easiest answer was to just jump in, just as the locals were doing, it was a wonderful afternoon. On the island, not far from the jetty for the ferry was a little bar that we frequented more than once on our way back to the old city. After an afternoon in the sun the first ice cold beer was more than welcome. Another dip in the sea was called for on this side of the island as it was far calmer and we managed to see one of the huge cruises ships depart with its fog horn at full blast. A swift ferry journey back and a quick 45 minute change and shower before an evening in the city.

After our fishy delights of the previous 2 evenings we went for change, taking one of Marc’s recommendations, a Bosnian restaurant offering authentic cuisine. Meat based with kebabs and pastry. Basically, a menu using all the ingredients you would find on a small rural farmhouse in the Bosnian countryside with a few animals and a productive patch of cultivated land. Once again, you could taste all the ingredients. The roast vegetables and salad tasted natural and organic. A drink of coffee without grappa this time on our way back to our accommodation at another café and it was time to call the day to a finish and get some rest. Relaxing is very tiring after all.